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19felix69
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Location: Boise, ID
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hammer and dollie set
should i just get the cheap set on northerntool.com or wait for something on ebay?
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'69f100swb360t89b3.11
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2/20/2004, 5:01 am
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6772FordFseries
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Re: hammer and dollie set
When I buy tools, I take a moment to figure out just how much I'll be using it. If it's something I'll use the heck out of almost every day, I'll spend the $$$ to get a good set. However, for things I'll only use occasionally, I'll just pick up an inexpensive piece. Since it's not used as often, it probably will last longer, and if it does break, it's economical to replace. I wouldn't think you'd need to invest in expensive bodywork tools unless you're planning on earning a living at it. If you're just fixing up an old truck or two, the less-expensive versions will work just fine.
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Keith
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2/20/2004, 7:39 am
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dutchtreat
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Re: hammer and dollie set
My motto on buying tools:
Buy the best you can afford...not the best there is....exceptions are like keith mentioned..I don't spend a lot of bucks for tools that I seldom use.
Dt.
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2/20/2004, 11:41 am
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Merlin68F100
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Re: hammer and dollie set
I have the beginner set of hammers and dollies from Northern and have been banging with them for about a year now. If my talent outgrows these tools I can always upgrade. I don't see myself ever doing that much bodywork. I mean its a hammer and a chunk of steel.
I agree, if this was my profession and I could write it off my taxes I might get the most expensive set I could find.
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Merlin 1968 F-100, 360, C6
Life is to short to dance with ugly women, drink cheap wine or drive Chevy trucks.
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2/20/2004, 12:55 pm
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lobuck76
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Re: hammer and dollie set
I bought a cheap set several years ago. The hammers didnt last long. the dollies I still use.
My advice on buying any hammer is get a good domestic one. The cheap ones will hurt you. Not so much little pick hammers, but ball pien, shop hammer, sledge hammers etc. ( (
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67 f100 300/4spd
94 bronco 351w/auto
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2/20/2004, 7:36 pm
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19felix69
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Re: hammer and dollie set
thanks for the advice
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'69f100swb360t89b3.11
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3/1/2004, 11:29 pm
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GTRacer
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Re: hammer and dollie set
if you are still looking.....
hammer & dollies set
--- GT-Racer FTE Sux
67 F-100 currently in pieces
Beginning frame off resto-rod
1983 Mustang 351w 4:11 gears
(7.99 8th mi best)
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3/8/2004, 7:23 pm
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willowbilly3
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Re: hammer and dollie set
I bought a cheap set a few years ago and a couple of my favorite dollys came from that set. The hammers were junk. I have a couple good hammers, one is a Mac and I am not sure on the other. One of my favorite dollys is one I made. It was a piece of 3/4 inch by 3 1/2 inch bar stock that I cut off about 5 inches long. I cut one corner off round and then ground one side of the rounded corner off, also rounded. I have found it to work where no boughten one will, especially for flanges and 90 degree seams. Grinding it off was time comsuming though.
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Buy The Ticket, Take The Ride
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3/12/2004, 2:17 am
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lobuck76
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Re: hammer and dollie set
I've got a hammer and dolly that my grandpa used. He was a bodyman for Cheverolet for 40+ years. Handiest guy with a torch I've ever seen. He's 94 years old and it tears him up that he can't work any more.
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67 f100 300/4spd
94 bronco 351w/auto
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3/12/2004, 6:34 pm
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tcb1969
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Re: hammer and dollie set
As far as dollies go - a lump of steel is a lump of steel! For hammers - good body hammers are not that expensive. I use mine to make part of my living and I buy all my hammers from Napa. The prices are decent $10-$20 each and they have oak handles. You really only need two or three at the most. That set on ebay isn't worth it after you pay shipping! Plus fiberglass flexes to much. Lot of times I use steel tubing for my dollies - whatever will fit behind the surface that you are working. A good tool will make you job much easier! Look at the Eastwood catalog and pick out the hammers you want and then go to Napa and look at their master catalog - I believe they are made by the same company.
A little bit of advice about metal working. Be very careful about working metal on metal (i.e. hammer and dolly) When you hammer metal it changes the structure, also known as work hardening, the metal doesn't just get thinner it also gets harder - a lot harder. Once the metal is hardened - that's it - there is nothing you can do to fix it (short of melting it into a puddle and reforming it!) Fixing dents is a lot more than hammering metal between two surfaces. Almost any dent (yes, almost ANY dent) can be removed without a trace if it is worked out in the exact opposite direction it was created. But to do this requires great attention to detail. A little planning will save a lot of trouble.
People get lazy on vehicles like ours because the metal is so thick (compared to newer cars). But you have to understand that the older metal is not the same chemical composition and was often formed differently and has different stress levels than newer metal. The "get a bigger hammer" approach is the wrong way to go.
To understand work hardening - get a strip of any "fresh" metal (new or unworked) - try to tear it. You can't. Now slowly bend it back and forth but don't bend it all the way over. Look at it closely after you do it a couple of times. Then after that - bend it back and forth several times fast - eventually it will break in your hands with almost no effort. That, my friends is work hardening. That is what you do when you use a hammer and dolly.
And one last thing. Please, please, please, don't ever hammer dents "in" and then fill with filler. This is why filler has such a bad reputation. Filler should never be applied thicker than 1/8" at time and should NEVER, NEVER, NEVER be applied thick than 1/4" in total.
As I've said elsewhere in these forums - please contact me if you have any bodywork questions. I don't want to have to charge someone a fortune for fixing the mess you made - but of course, I don't mind charging YOU! 
John
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4/12/2004, 12:13 pm
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