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NM5K
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


This page has some info on them...
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_8/4.html

MK

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1968 F-250 / 300 six / T-18
Dana 60 - 4.10 Limited Slip
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6772FordFseries
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


MK: Thanks for the link! I actually learned something reading through that info. I have that page/site bookmarked for further scrutiny.

I also found a good 'layman's' description in the archives of the Classic Mustang site:
quote:

A shunt is simply a resistor of a very very low resistance, like a big wire. It carries most of the current of the ammeter, and the ammeter measures voltage across the shunt to find current.

For example, if you want to measure 100 amps, you won't find many ammeters that will measure that much current, so to make one, you would use a shunt. The shunt would be a resistor with a value of about .01 ohms. The resistance has to be low enough not to make much of a difference in the circuit (or the ammeter itself will cause the current to be low because of
it's high resistance).

If you put 100 amps across a .01 ohm resistor, by ohms law, Voltage=Current*Resistance, you get Voltage=100 amps*.01 ohms, so Voltage = 1 volt. So you use a voltmeter to measure the voltage across the shunt, and you have an ammeter. 1 Volt = 100 amps, .1 Volt = 10 amps, etc.

Most ammeters use shunts of one type or another, most times they are internal to the gauge and you can't see them. They use shunts because it's very hard to wire a meter with wire large enough to carry that kind of current, so the shunt carries the current and the meter measures the voltage across the shunt, which indicates how much current is present.

As to whether you like your ammeter or voltmeter better on a car, it's really a matter of personal preference.

http://lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermail/classic-mustangs/1998-August/012903.html


Image
Between that description, and the above graphic which was posted on the previous site (and borrowed to post here, for future reference), I think I have a pretty good understanding of why it's there and how it works. I have a spare harness of the shunt type, and I think I might just have to do a little cutting into it and see if I can't track this shunt down so I can get an actual visual of what it looks like. I just purchased a wiring schematic book on E-bay for '67 F-100s thru F-750s, and I'll definitely be comparing the F-600 ammeter hookup with the F-100's to see if a shunt does exist in the bigger truck's harness. I'll let you know what I find out when the book comes in and after I can tear into this harness.

Last edited by 6772FordFseries, 12/1/2004, 4:14 pm


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Keith
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6772FordFseries
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


Well, I took the afternoon off from work today to drive up to that big-truck salvage operation with the F600 panels. I saw one '67-only style and 6-8 of the '68-up style. The '67 style was exactly like mine (pictured above) with no tach or vacuum gauge. Most of the '68-up styles had no tach or vacuum gauge, just the speedo and smaller gauges, but I think there was one or two. They had both the painted panels and the chrome versions, but virtually all of the chrome versions were rust-pitted. When I asked him how much, he said he'd have to take a look at the specific one I chose and quote me a price then....but said he thought $75-$100 for a complete version in good shape. I decided that was a bit out of my price range, considering I've already got one. Plus I'm thinking I prefer the '67-only style anyway and that it wouldn't look right to have the '68-up tach and vacuum gauges.

However, I DID notice that the '66-older Ford trucks had a tach which was closer in appearance to the '67-only style and there were several of them there as well but no matching vacuum gauges.

I DID find one thing which I think I'm going to try to pick up sometime soon. They have a mid-70's F-350 tow truck with a 391 and an air brake setup! I'm not interested in converting to air brakes, but the onboard air compressor will be great for in-field repairs. It looked to be complete and I was quoted "about $300" for the full setup, to include the compressor, all pulleys and all brackets, including the brackets which relocate the alternator to down low on the passenger side, and comes with a matching air-pressure gauge that fits the F-600 style dash panel. (Will 391 pulleys fit a 390?)

heep70: you DO realize that the tachs are mechanical drive, don't you? From what I understand, the tach-drive distributor won't fit into a standard light-truck engine, which means you'd have to go with an aftermarket race-type distributor. I didn't pick any up because I figured I'd better make sure you knew what you'd be getting, especially at the prices they're asking. Anyway, let me know if you still want one. If so, I'll be sure to pick up for you the next time I'm up there, probably when I go back to get the air compressor setup. I might go ahead and pick up a '66-older tach just to have it, and decide later whether or not I want to go to a mechanical-drive distributor.

Last edited by 6772FordFseries, 1/2/2004, 7:08 pm


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Keith
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heep70
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


Thanks for looking. I need the elect tach. I have givin up on high performance distributors. For some reason I keep burning them up in my pick up. I have gone back to the stock set up w/ a petronics module; it seems to be working well. I still need to get the dist recurved for my engine spec.
That air comp sounds like a score. I had one on my jeep, loved it. I made front and rear bumpers that also served as the air tanks. It wasn't a lot of air, but it would set the bead on a tire. Thanks, again for looking.


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Greg
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willowbilly3
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


 I have 3 of the F-600 panels and I think I will use aftermarket guages for the accuracey and also so I can have a voltmeter. Unless I can find a voltmeter that will fit and match the other guages.

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53flathead
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


This question most likeky has been answered already, but if I found a 67 panel like the one Keith pictured above, and wanted to use it in a 67 F100, is it a direct swap in? If not, what has to be done to make it work correctly?
4/1/2004, 6:02 pm Send Email to 53flathead   Send PM to 53flathead
 
6772FordFseries
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


As far as I know, it will plug right in and be useable...but [insert standard disclaimer here] I haven't actually tried it yet, so I'm not 100% sure. If your truck's instrument panel is equipped with idiot lights instead of a factory ammeter, you'll also have to swap in a wiring harness from a ammeter-equipped truck, since those wiring harnesses had the shunt to power that ammeter. And you'd have to swap out the idiot-light oil pressure sending unit to work with the F600 gauge.

I'm going to be doing this swap later this spring, so I'll be taking notes and writing something up about it. I've already gotten started on it. Here's a pic I was planning on using for the write-up...it's the shunt everyone's so curious about. Those two yellow wires coming out of it run up to the ammeter.

Image

Last edited by 6772FordFseries, 4/1/2004, 9:29 pm


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Keith
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69ranger
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


The local "truck" junkyard I go to is crushing all of the older fords and all of the buses and they have mostly pre 73 stuff. If anyone needs anything let me know. He said he would give them to me for $40 apiece. I don't know if that is fair or not but if anyone is interested let me know and I will pull them and save them for you.

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69 F-100 Ranger 351c 4bbl
4spd dana 60
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6772FordFseries
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


Hey, if you can get your hands on a few extra bucks and buy this guy out of all his F600 panels, I almost guarantee you'll sell them all in pretty short order. $40 for one isn't a bad deal at all, if it's in good shape and has all the gauges intact.

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Keith
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bumt72
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Re: Question on using F600 panel


If you get a F600 panel let me know.

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Da BUMT
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