390Nut
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Registered: 02-2004
Location: Rain Country U.S.A.
Posts: 90
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Really oddball clutch issues I cant solve (long!)
Ok, history:
3 years ago, I replaced the entire clutch assembly inside the bellhousing on my truck. New disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and pilot bushing. Noticed some slop in the linkage, as well as bushings going bad on the pedal assembly.
I started to search for replacement parts for the linkage, and started buying pieces; new Z bar, pedal-to-Z bar rod, new Z bar bushings and felts, and pedal bushings.
3 months (about 1000 miles or so) after putting in the new clutch, I was stranded, as the clutch pedal seemed to bind about halfway down, then lost all resistance nad hit the floor. Somehow the clutch pivot bracket had shattered. It also broke one of the clips on the throw-out bearing.
Replaced the pivot bracket, and the clutch fork as well as throw-out bearing (recent new one had a broken clip on it).
Put it back together, and tried to adjust it again, only to find that with the adjustment rod almost completely out (expanded as far as it will go) I only have about 1 1/2 inches from the floor before the clutch disengages.
Sooo, put all the new linkage parts in. Everything except the pedal bushings, as that is more job than I wanted to tackel at the time.
Fast forward to now; New engine in, with a fresh flywheel (thicker than the one on my old engine, so it's been turned less) with a totally different bellhousing, clutch fork, (both off a `71 390 4 spd truck) and new throw-out bearing (again, the same clip was broken on the bearing)
Even with all new linkage and clutch parts (disk/pressure plate have less than 1500 miles on them now) I STILL have less than 2 inches from the floor before dis-engaging the clutch.
Is it likely that I killed the pressure plate? Everything looked fine, and I seem to get resistance in the pedal right after pressing down about 2 inches. It just wont disengage until the pedal is almost to the floor. This is with the adjustement rod all the way out!
One more question. Is the adjustment rod supposed to have a bushing on the round end (that fits over the stud on the Z bar?) The new Z bar is identical to the old one (except for the worn out, egg shaped hole where the pedal rod goes through on the old one)
I cant find anything on this in the manual, and it's been driving me nuts for too long. Someone has to have some idea what this is, as all I can think of is the pressure plate is lunched (even though it still works, just not where it's supposed to) Sorry this is so long, but I felt it wise to give all info I could, so hopefully someone can help me figure it out. ( (
---
Paul--
`69 F100 .030 - 390 4 spd 3.50 gears
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4/26/2004, 10:26 pm
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68F250
Blue Oval Fan
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Registered: 11-2003
Location: Brea, CA
Posts: 258
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Re: Really oddball clutch issues I cant solve (long!)
Hi Paul, I had a similar experience in a microbus. Was driving along one day and went to push in the clutch then WHAM, the pedal went to the floor and hey, no clutch! No problem, shift on the fly and kill it at the lights.
What happened was the clutch cable broke so I picked up a new one and installed it. Then it was acting very funny, the engagement point was about the same but I had to push it all the way in and it still wasn’t totally disengaging.
So 4 bolts later out comes the motor and there’s the problem. The throwout bearing was not properly secured to the clutch fork and one of the clips was broken.
I know this doesn’t help you much but maybe check your clutch fork and bearing again.
Barry
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4/27/2004, 8:21 pm
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DuckRyder
Blue Oval Fan
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Registered: 12-2003
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 278
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Re: Really oddball clutch issues I cant solve (long!)
Couple of randon thoughts:
Throwout bearing correct one for the application? (including the tupe of pressure plate)
Does the throwout arm in the tranny pivot on a ball, if so, is it adjustable or worn.
Is the throwout arm the one that goes with the bellhousing.
If all that is good (and it sound slike you have it covered) I'd suspect the pressure plate. Even more so if it is a "parts store" clutch vs something like a hayes, centerforce, mcleod (SP?) etc.
Story time, had a 77 trans am with a high output 400 and a rockcrusher. went through 3 parts store clutches and one heavy duty GM replacement (in about 8000 miles) before replacing it with a NEW Hayes "Street Strip" which was going strong for 20 or so thousand when my freind totaled the car.
--- Robert
1972 Ford F100 RangerXLT
323i.net
RangerXLT.com |
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4/27/2004, 8:37 pm
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jake11
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Registered: 10-2007
Posts: 6
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Re: Really oddball clutch issues I cant solve (long!)
The "pivot" the arm rides on is riveted in
the bell. They work lose.
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10/28/2007, 11:19 pm
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